Abstract: Arabic calligraphy is a high-stakes cultural visual domain for Muslim communities, yet VLM evaluations rarely test its fine-grained script traditions. We audit 12 VLMs on a cleaned 1,195-image six-way benchmark using numeric, visual-cue, and Diwani-first prompts. In this closed-set setting, the best numeric-prompt accuracy is 60.9% for closed/API models and 47.2% for open-weight models. The main failure is default-label collapse: every numeric run is dominated by a single label taking 33-63% of predictions, against an 18.8% majority-class baseline. For 8 of 12 models the default is Thuluth; GPT-4o labels 52.9% of all images as Thuluth although it is only 18.1% of the set. Prompting helps unevenly: visual cues move accuracy by more than 10 points for some models but hurt others, and foregrounding Diwani often relocates the default rather than removing it. Arabic calligraphy recognition is therefore a compact, culturally grounded stress test for VLM robustness and for measuring which visual traditions become legible to automated systems.